
Situated in the Upper Valdarno, Montevarchi is a small town in the province of Arezzo but geographically very close to Florence. Its central position, straddling the two cities, makes it an ideal base for exploring both, thanks also to its proximity to the motorway.
Montevarchi is also the gateway to the Chianti region on the Arezzo side, making it perfect for visiting the treasures of this part of Tuscany. But don’t overlook the town itself: whilst not an internationally renowned tourist destination, it nonetheless boasts a charming historic centre with several worthwhile sights and beautiful surrounding countryside.
The historic centre of Montevarchi is small and compact, but there are several things worth visiting. After exploring, take the car and venture into the surrounding area, where you’ll find other magnificent attractions.
The Palazzo del Podestà in Montevarchi, now serving as the seat of the Municipal Council, stands in the heart of Piazza Varchi, and was built in the Middle Ages as a residence for the Podestà, the ancient rulers of the city. It was transformed during the sixteenth century, and its façade displays the painted or embedded coats of arms of the Podestà families who ruled throughout the centuries. The ground floor is open to the public and hosts exhibitions and events: essentially a small exhibition space in the heart of Montevarchi.
Montevarchi’s most important church is the Collegiata di San Lorenzo, which overlooks Piazza Varchi just like the Podestà’s palace. Its present appearance is the result of numerous restorations and alterations over the centuries; it’s worth stopping to visit the interior, with its beautiful nave containing numerous frescoes depicting scenes from the life of Saint Lawrence.
Along the sides are several altars, sacristies and chapels, whilst the high altar dates to 1706 and comprises an enormous marble group representing angels supporting the Madonna and Child. The artist was Giovanni Baratta, and over the centuries it has been enriched and surrounded by other works in marble, stucco and wood.
The bell tower is particularly noteworthy, dating back to 1440, with its roof added over 100 years later. Above the clock is a statue of Saint Lawrence, dating from the late nineteenth century.
The Palaeontological Museum of Montevarchi is one of the most interesting places to visit in town. Situated in the rooms of the ancient Franciscan convent of San Lodovico, it reopened at the end of 2014 after a seven-year restoration.
The collection contains just under 3,000 specimens, almost all discovered in the Upper Valdarno area, including plant fossils such as tree trunks, leaves, fruits and seeds, and animals, including the enormous Elephas meridionalis, which disappeared about a million years ago and could reach 4 metres in length and weigh 200 quintals. Among the main pieces on display is a skull of the sabre-toothed tiger, or Machairodus meganteron. Also interesting are the remains of tapirs, rhinoceroses and primitive bears, as well as giant hyenas, horses, wild boar and red deer.
The Palaeontological Museum of Montevarchi is located at Via Poggio Bracciolini 36, and is open Thursday to Sunday from 10am to 1pm and from 3pm to 5.30pm.
The Bum Bum Gà art park is located a few kilometres from the town centre, heading east towards the hills. It’s a small open-air modern art park created by artist and curator Carmelo Librizzi, who is always keen to welcome visitors and explain the details of his works, many of which are built from scrap and old metal, using old bicycles and car wrecks.
In Valdambra, in the municipality of Bucine a few kilometres south of Montevarchi, stands the beautiful Torre di Galatrona, situated at an altitude of approximately 500 metres, now all that remains of an ancient medieval castle.
The tower stands approximately 25-30 metres high and is built from sandstone. It is accessed via a wooden walkway and flight of stairs, built during a restoration phase, as originally only retractable ladders were used. The Torre di Galatrona comprises 6 floors plus a terrace-roof, from which there are splendid views of the surrounding countryside. There is also a basement with water storage functions, accessed via a trap door on the ground floor.
The Torre di Galatrona is open at weekends from April to October, Saturdays from 3pm to 7pm and Sundays from 10am to 12pm and from 3pm to 7pm.
In the municipality of Laterina Pergine Valdarno, a few kilometres from Montevarchi, another unmissable monument for those in the area is Castello di Montozzi, situated on a hilltop between the Upper Valdarno and Valdambra. Dating to the twelfth century, it is very beautiful and imposing, though it can only be viewed from the outside, as the main building is actually an eighteenth-century villa, owned by the Baldelli family who still reside there.
Beside the complex stands a lovely church, dedicated to Saints Martin and Lucy, with a single nave and three altars in pietra serena. Particularly beautiful is the fresco of Saint Bartholomew freeing the wife of the King of Armenia from a demon, a work by painter Giovanni Camillo Sagrestani.
If you wish to stay in the historic centre of Montevarchi, there are around a dozen establishments to choose from, all excellent apartments or B&Bs, some housed within elegant historic palaces. There are also a couple of 3 and 4-star hotels located outside the centre, suitable for those seeking more facilities.
If you venture a few kilometres outside the centre, you’ll find yourself in the heart of Tuscan countryside. Here you can choose from accommodation options such as villas, farm stays and boutique hotels, almost all equipped with swimming pools and on-site restaurants where you can enjoy local specialities. Bear in mind that staying at these properties requires a car, as they are practically unreachable by public transport.
Wherever you’re coming from, reaching Montevarchi is fairly straightforward as it’s just a few kilometres from the Valdarno exit of the A1 motorway. From Florence, for example, it takes less than 45 minutes: we recommend joining the motorway at Florence South and continuing to the Valdarno exit, then following signs for Montevarchi, which you’ll reach after a few kilometres.
From its provincial capital Arezzo, Montevarchi is reached in approximately 30-35 minutes by taking the motorway northbound. From Siena it takes just under an hour, but you travel through the stunning Chianti landscape rather than on the motorway.
Finally, from Tuscany’s coastal cities such as Pisa and Livorno, reaching Montevarchi means first getting to Florence, then joining the A1. In this case you’ll cover approximately 150 kilometres and the journey takes about an hour and a half.
Those travelling by public transport can use the Montevarchi-Terranuova railway station, which is on the slow Florence-Rome line and is therefore very convenient as it stops for practically all regional trains departing from Florence heading south.
The train journey from Florence Santa Maria Novella takes just under 40 minutes, with very frequent departures, up to three trains an hour. Once you’ve alighted, it takes just 5 minutes to walk to the centre: simply cross the station square, officially Piazza Donatori di Sangue, and turn right onto Via Ammiraglio Burzagli, continuing until you reach the start of Via Roma.
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Montevarchi lies in the Valdarno region, in the province of Arezzo, just a few kilometres from the border with the province of Florence.