
A land between sea and mountain: this is how Cinigiano is best described, distant from the coast yet visible from many vantage points, not quite mountainous, a territory that alternates between different and sometimes contrasting landscapes and atmospheres.
You’ll encounter gently sloping hills and the plain through which the Ombrone meanders lazily, hillsides dotted with farmsteads, and shifting palettes of colour—from the golden blonde of wheat fields to the dark green of oak scrub and holm oak, to the changing hues of vineyards and the mysterious silver of olive groves.
In the distance, Amiata rises up, dominating the landscape and seemingly standing guard over it all. Let’s explore this territory more closely, starting with the main town.
It spreads across a hilltop ridge with a character quite different from other hill towns, shaped as it has been by landslides caused by the clay soil.
Worth visiting are the Church of San Michele Arcangelo, built in the late sixteenth century, and the small church of Santa Maria delle Nevi, erected in the fifteenth century and featuring interesting frescoes. In the upper part of town you can still see the remains of the old fortress.
Along the town centre’s streets, numerous traditional wine cellars open their doors to visitors during the summer Calici di Stelle festival and the autumn Grape Festival.
The earliest records of Porrona date back to 1206, when it was under the control of the Siena Republic. In the fifteenth century ownership was divided between the Tolomei and two branches of the Piccolomini family, whose coats of arms are displayed on either side of the piazza.
Inside the church, dedicated to San Donato, you’ll find some fine canvases of the Sienese school and a stray Romanesque capital supporting the baptismal font, possibly from the nearby church of Oppiano.
A small village perched on a hilltop, gently nestled along its slopes.
It’s wonderfully atmospheric to wander through the narrow streets and enjoy the panoramic views that reveal landscapes of poignant beauty.
The main church, San Michele Arcangelo, dates from the nineteenth century; near a miraculous spring stands the Sanctuary of Madonna di Val di Prata.
The Casa Museo is of particular interest—a small ethno-anthropological museum preserving rooms from everyday life at the end of the nineteenth century. From here, several educational trails lead into the green expanse of the Poggio all’Olmo Nature Reserve.
Mentioned from 1216 in documents recording disputes over the Aldobrandeschi family’s property divisions, the castle has been remodelled several times.
It was owned by the Sienese Bandini family, which included Sallustio, author of the discourse on the Maremma of Siena. From here you enjoy incredible views spanning the entire Maremma and beyond to the sea. Porrona, surrounded by the walls enclosing the castle, church and some houses, perpetuates the ambiguous charm of a medieval village.
In the centre of the town, which appears to hover above a high rocky outcrop overlooking the river from which it takes its name, stands the Church of San Michele Arcangelo, which houses a wooden crucifix—a polychrome sculpture of the Sienese school dating from the first half of the fifteenth century.
Two particular sites of historical interest are accessible via a trail: the location of the old boat landing used to cross the river before the bridge was built, and the remains of the Monteverdi mineral water bottling plant.
An educational pathway leads down to the river, allowing you to appreciate its unique character in striking views.
You can visit the Oratory of Madonna del Carmine as well as the monastery of the Siloe community.
In the area stands the medieval castle of Vicarello, which, though altered, retains its original structure: it now houses an exclusive agriturismo.
Also noteworthy in the area is the sixteenth-century castle of Colle Massari and Montecucco, where it’s worth visiting the fine wine cellars and the church of San Pietro and Sant’Antonio.
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