Hotel & Resort Sant'Anna Del Volterraio
Portoferraio - Bagnaia
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It’s almost impossible to miss Portoferraio during your holiday on Elba Island. After all, this is most likely where you’ll arrive by ferry, as its port is the largest and busiest on the island. But even if you arrived by another route, such as the ferry to Rio Marina or by plane, you won’t be able to skip a visit to Portoferraio‘s historic centre, its charming tourist harbour and the wonderful beaches of its surrounding area.
Portoferraio‘s name itself encapsulates the essence of Elba Island: the words “port” and “iron” have shaped the history of this splendid island for centuries – the largest in the Tuscan Archipelago and Italy’s third largest after Sicily and Sardinia. This charming seaside town, facing the northern coast of Elba, represents its principal centre, albeit unofficially, and at the same time its main port, most populous municipality and second largest by area.
Portoferraio offers all kinds of services, countless hotels, restaurants and bars, as well as shops, especially in the historic centre which stretches narrowly between the two medieval forts that define it. And as if that weren’t enough, just a stone’s throw from the centre lie some beautiful Elba beaches, starting with the Ghiaie, which is also accessible on foot from the port, making it the perfect destination for day trips from the mainland.
Despite its wide cultural appeal, Portoferraio remains primarily a beach destination. These are the best beaches in Portoferraio, accessible on foot or with a short journey; there’s no need to describe the beauty of their waters: after all, the Tyrrhenian Sea at Elba is at its best here, offering intense shades of blue and unique clarity.
The Spiaggia delle Viste lies behind Portoferraio’s historic village, easily accessible on foot along the path leading to Forte Stella, yet not excessively crowded. It’s made of pebbles and the water is clear and crystalline; the caves that form along the right edge are particularly lovely. Spiaggia delle Viste is unequipped, though you’ll find a restaurant there.
Among all the beaches accessible on foot from Portoferraio’s centre, the Ghiaie is one of the most famous and frequented. From its name you can immediately tell it’s made of pebbles, never excessively large, so you’ll have no trouble laying out your towel. The beach is partly free and partly equipped with the option to hire sun loungers and parasols. There are facilities such as a bar, free showers and parking, though we recommend arriving on foot as during high season parking becomes scarce.
The small Cala dei Frati is in a sense a continuation of Spiaggia delle Ghiaie, sharing its north-facing aspect and small pebbles. It’s smaller, only about a hundred metres long, and unequipped. The sea is equally beautiful to that at Ghiaie, in some places even more so.
Cala dei Frati is accessible only by sea, or on foot from the western edge of Spiaggia delle Ghiaie by wading through the water for a few dozen metres. Be aware that this way the water reaches at least to your waist, so it’s not advisable if you have small children with you.
The Spiaggia della Padulella is one of Portoferraio’s most crowded beaches, for two reasons: it’s small and absolutely beautiful. We therefore recommend visiting it out of season if possible, whilst if you want to go in August, it’s best to get up early in the morning to enjoy it without too many tourists.
Once you arrive you’ll be astonished by the beauty of the place, the water and the natural setting. There’s also a beach club where you can hire sun loungers and parasols, and a bar-restaurant for refreshments.
Spiaggia della Padulella is about 2 kilometres from Portoferraio’s historic centre, however we strongly recommend walking there: the walk takes less than half an hour but it will be absolutely worth it, as you’ll avoid the huge parking problem, as there’s only one car park, which is small, charged and shared with Capo Bianco beach.
The “twin” beach to Padulella is Capo Bianco, which lies beyond the headland separating them. As mentioned, Capo Bianco shares the small car park with Spiaggia della Padulella, so in this case too we recommend walking there from Portoferraio. Here too you’ll find crystal-clear waters, a small beach club and some facilities on the beach, such as a bar, restaurant and canoe hire.
All the beaches mentioned previously are accessible on foot from Portoferraio, or at least are located within the urban area. Biodola, on the other hand, is about 7 kilometres from the centre, but is still part of the municipality. However, it’s one of Elba Island’s most beautiful beaches, and it’s really worth visiting, despite parking and crowding issues.
The wide bay where Biodola is located shelters it from the winds, and comfort is guaranteed by soft sand and numerous beach clubs, where you can hire sun loungers and parasols. The seabed slopes gently into the sea, making it ideal for elderly visitors and families with children.
Portoferraio’s historic centre is very pleasant to visit, a typical fishing village with medieval touches, bordered to the south by a lovely tourist harbour where you can stroll while watching the yachts. There’s no shortage of attractions: visit them all between one beach and another, to add a touch of culture to your Elba holiday.
Forte Falcone is located at the western edge of Portoferraio’s historic centre in a commanding position. It’s a fort dating from the mid-sixteenth century, commissioned by the Medici, and only completed in the early eighteenth century. Originally built for defensive and surveillance purposes, today it’s possible to enter and visit the ancient soldiers’ quarters, the powder magazine and the armoury.
Opposite Forte Falcone, delimiting Portoferraio to the east, stands Forte Stella. Both share the same construction start date and defensive purpose, to protect the town from attacks from the sea. The complex is surrounded by a brick curtain wall and bounded by 5 angular bastions. On the north-western summit of Forte Stella stands Portoferraio lighthouse, dating from the eighteenth century and built by the House of Lorraine.
Palazzina dei Mulini, or simply Villa Mulini, is a historic residence of Napoleon, who lived on Elba during his exile between 1814 and 1815. Villa Mulini today houses the Napoleonic Museum, whose exhibition route extends across the ground floor, first floor and garden. You can see the original furnishings of the villa’s rooms, including the vestibule, bedroom and ballroom. The garden is also beautiful, where Napoleon spent much of his days.
In Piazza della Repubblica, in the heart of Portoferraio‘s historic centre, stands the Church of the Nativity of Mary, the city cathedral. The church was built in the sixteenth century, although what we see today results from major restructuring that took place in the nineteenth century. The interiors are worth visiting, where there’s a beautiful altar dedicated to Our Lady of Safe Voyage, reinforcing Portoferraio’s maritime vocation.
Portoferraio is a town very well developed from a tourism perspective. Hotels are plentiful, located either in the centre or near the port, or along the coast. There’s no shortage of high-end establishments, as well as more basic solutions for those with a tighter budget.
Your choice of where to stay in Portoferraio depends on the convenience you’re looking for to reach the beaches: you can stay right in the centre to reach your hotel on foot once you’ve disembarked from the ferry and at the same time enjoy relaxing evening strolls, or you can look for something along the coast to reach the sea on foot without the stress of finding parking. The choice is, as always, a matter of organisation and budget.
Portoferraio is extremely easy to reach, as it’s where most ferries from the Tuscan ports of Piombino and Livorno dock: once you’ve disembarked you’ve arrived at your destination!
If instead you’re coming from other parts of Elba Island, you can rest assured that reaching Portoferraio is simple as you’ll always find road signs indicating it, as it represents the island’s most important municipality. It’s located on the northern coast, about 20 minutes’ drive from Marina di Campo Airport, from Porto Azzurro and from Capoliveri, and about 30 minutes’ drive from Rio Marina, the island’s other port where ferries dock.
What's the weather at Portoferraio? Below are the temperatures and the weather forecast at Portoferraio for the next few days.
Portoferraio sits on the island of Elba, serving as its unofficial capital. Located on the island's northern coast, it lies at the eastern end of a small gulf.
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