Straits of Giaredo

The Giaredo gorges are natural canyons, reaching heights of up to 50 metres, carved out by the Gordana stream, a tributary of the Magra, whose crystal-clear waters flow from Monte Tecchione, through the Zeri valley, and down to Pontremoli. The gorges offer a dramatic landscape, with transparent pools, small waterfalls, narrow gorges and enormous boulders wedged in the stream, alongside rich flora and fauna.

Summer is the best season to visit, primarily because ascending the stream requires swimming through often freezing water, as very little sunlight penetrates the gorges, and secondly because the area is prone to flooding and should definitely not be visited straight after heavy rain. Beyond the safety concerns, it’s also important that the water isn’t murky, otherwise you won’t see where you’re stepping, and slipping on wet rocks is decidedly unpleasant.

So the recommendation is to choose a clear, sunny day and come prepared with: an old pair of trainers for wading through the water, swimming costume, a waterproof jacket (for the shock of cold water), and a dinghy or air mattress, which is brilliant if you have something you don’t want to get wet or if you’d rather keep only your feet in the water.

Exploring the Giaredo gorges

From the lay-by that serves as the starting point, continue on foot along a trail of just a few hundred metres that opens directly onto the stream.
You’ll need to walk across the rocks or with your feet in the water to reach the gorges, but for those who prefer a gentler pace, there’s the option to stop for a swim in one of the natural pools created by the Gordana.

Heading north, you’ll reach the actual entrance to the gorges: two towering walls of red and green jasper rock rise up and seem almost to touch, whilst below them the crystal-clear stream reflects the colours of the surrounding stone.

As you make your way up the Gordana, you enter the first gorge and immediately need to dive in: but don’t worry, it’s only a few strokes. From here, you continue through the gorges, past narrow passages, cavities, natural caves and small waterfalls cascading from above. There aren’t many spots where you lose your footing; mostly you’ll be wading with water up to your ankles or knees.

The walk takes about an hour, though it’s still worth arriving early, ideally in the morning, so you can make the most of the best daylight hours to warm up in the sun between dips.

How to get there

The starting point is Pontremoli; from here, follow signs for Zeri and after a few hairpin bends take the turning towards Cavezzana Gordana (on the left after a bend). Then turn immediately right and at the next junction, after a left-hand hairpin, continue onto an unmade road heading downhill that leads to a lay-by, easily recognisable by a clear signboard providing further information about the gorges’ formation and local wildlife.

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