
Palaia is an agricultural centre situated on one of the highest ridges that divide the Arno Valley from the Valdera. Of Etruscan origins, as evidenced by various finds, Palaia enjoyed a period of relative prosperity in the 13th century, when the Pieve di San Martino was constructed – a distinctive terracotta building that hosts an international choral festival each year – and the Church of Sant’Andrea, which houses valuable artworks.
The memory of its agricultural traditions lives on in the surrounding area: the village of Montefoscoli is now home to the Museum of Rural Life, where visitors can explore wine cellars, a mill and a curing house. The Museum of Labour and Rural Life at San Gervasio displays tools, utensils and even vintage tractors.
Palaia serves as an excellent starting point for scenic excursions, such as the route through the villages of Colleoli (an ancient castle now converted into a palazzo), Villa Saletta (where the Taviani brothers filmed La Notte di San Lorenzo and Fiorile, and Paolo Virzì directed Io e Napoleone) and Toiano, an abandoned hamlet nestled among rolling hills and dramatic sand ravines.
Notable events include the Medieval Festival (Palaia, third Sunday in September) and the Popular Theatre Festival (Villa Saletta, late June). For something quirky, Forcoli hosts the curious beauty pageant “Miss Cicciona” in July, featuring women from across Italy who weigh over 100 kg competing on the runway.
Palaia is also a white truffle foraging area. Consequently, Italy’s first Truffle River Park was recently established here, protecting the vegetation and waterways that foster the reproduction of this precious fungus.
The Pieve di San Martino is located in Palaia and was founded in 1280. The terracotta building is decorated with corbel arches, and its façade is punctuated by ogival openings.
The combination of Romanesque and Gothic elements suggests the church was constructed in two separate phases.
Notable inside is a cylindrical holy water stoup dating from the 12th century.
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