Volterra

Palazzo dei Priori

The stunning Palazzo dei Priori is one of Volterra’s principal attractions. Located in Piazza dei Priori, it is notable for being Tuscany’s oldest municipal palace. Its architectural style is strikingly reminiscent of Florence’s Palazzo Vecchio, yet it boasts its own unique history and character. Built in the early 1200s, it now houses the offices of Volterra municipality, but in the past it served to accommodate the 18 Priori del Popolo.

On the outside, the stone façade is characterised by cornices and semi-circular battlements, and is decorated with terracotta plaques recalling ancient Florentine families, testament to the fact that Volterra was governed by Florence from the 15th century. The façade is topped by a tall tower, dating back to the 16th century, and rebuilt 150 years later following damage from the 1846 earthquake.

Inside, visit the elegant atrium, where the coats of arms of the city’s priori are displayed. Don’t miss the magnificent Council Hall, the palace’s most impressive room, located on the first floor. On the upper floors, now used as offices by Volterra Municipality, there were originally the Priori’s bedrooms, as well as a hall for assemblies and meals.

Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta

Volterra’s cathedral, officially the Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta, is the town’s principal church. Built in Romanesque and Baroque style, its construction took 6 centuries, from the 12th to the 18th.

Step inside to admire the Latin cross floor plan with three aisles separated by 22 columns of pink stucco with white capitals. Much of what you can see inside Volterra’s cathedral dates from an important restoration carried out in the mid-1800s, including the white and grey striped walls, the presbytery and the floor. When you’re in the central aisle, look up and admire the splendid coffered ceiling with geometric and decorative motifs, whilst to the sides of the aisles there are 6 chapels, which house artworks by numerous painters from the late 1500s.

The oldest artwork preserved inside Volterra’s cathedral is the sculptural group of the Deposition, dating back to the 1200s and created by local craftsmen. It depicts Jesus Christ being taken down from the cross by the Virgin Mary, St John the Evangelist, Joseph of Arimathea and Nicodemus.

Roman Theatre

In the 1950s, an ancient Roman theatre was uncovered in Volterra thanks to a series of archaeological excavations north of the historic centre. The theatre has been dated to the late 1st century BC, and is carved into the natural slope of a small hillock, just like Greek theatres. In addition to the theatre, the excavations brought to light seating and some of the staircases.

It is estimated that the theatre could hold up to 3,500 spectators, and it also featured a velarium, a cloth supported by ropes that served as a covering, making it usable even in adverse weather conditions. The theatre is open to visitors as it is contained within an archaeological area, accessed just outside Porta Fiorentina.

Today, Volterra’s Roman theatre has been restored to its former glory as a venue for events and performances, with the International Festival held here every year, where a qualified jury awards the prestigious Ombra della Sera prizes to important figures in entertainment and culture.

Medici Fortress

Florentine rule over Volterra is also evident in the town through the presence of the Medici Fortress, an imposing building comprised of two separate structures, connected by high defensive walls. These are the Rocca Vecchia, or Cassero, and the Rocca Nuova, or Mastio.

The first section to be built was the Rocca Vecchia, erected by the Duke of Athens, a neutral leader of Volterra during the 1300s, to try to prevent the town’s most important families from warring with each other to dominate the city. Alongside it stands the Rocca Nuova, built directly by Lorenzo de’ Medici, who destroyed two districts and the Bishop’s palace in the process.

Volterra’s Medici Fortress today serves as a state prison and is therefore not open to visitors, except in exceptional circumstances.

Baptistry of St John the Baptist

Opposite the cathedral stands the Baptistry of St John, an octagonal building dating from the second half of the 1200s. The façade facing the cathedral is particularly beautiful and distinctive, with white and green marble bands featuring a magnificent portal in Romanesque style.

Inside, the Baptistry of St John has six niches and an altar, the latter dating from the 1700s. There are some very important decorations, including an Ascension by Niccolò Cercignani, painted on wood, whilst to the right of the altar is the ancient baptismal font, a work by Andrea Sansovino from 1502. At the centre of the baptistry is a large baptismal basin, topped with a statue of St John the Baptist, created in 1759 by Giovanni Vaccà.

Via Don Minzoni in Volterra is home to the Guarnacci Etruscan Museum, one of the town’s principal attractions. It showcases Volterra’s Etruscan past with an extensive ancient art collection spread across 38 rooms, arranged over three floors plus a garden, all interconnected.

The Etruscan museum was founded in the late 1700s thanks to private donations, the most significant of which was from Monsignor Mario Guarnacci, who donated his entire collection to the newly established museum, so much so that the museum was initially housed within Palazzo Ruggeri, the private residence of the Guarnacci family.

Inside the museum you can view the world’s largest collection of Etruscan urns. Among the most notable works are the Stele of Avile Tite, the bronze statuette known as the Evening Shadow, the terracotta urn of the spouses, and the Lorenzini head.

The Abbey of Saints Justus and Clement is a religious building now abandoned and in a state of disrepair, due to the 1846 earthquake. But it is precisely this condition that makes it truly unique, and in some ways one of the finest and most distinctive things to see in Volterra.

Of the church, the façade from the late Renaissance period, the apse and the bell tower remain standing. The numerous artworks originally present have been transferred to other buildings in the town, including the diocesan museum of sacred art, the Church of San Giusto, the Volterra civic art gallery and museum, and the municipal library.

The Abbey of Saints Justus and Clement is located to the north of Volterra, a short distance from the famous Balze. You can reach it by taking the SP15 road heading north for just over 2 kilometres.

It’s impossible to leave Volterra without capturing a stunning photograph of its Balze at sunset. The Balze of Volterra are rock formations situated near the town, extending over an area of almost 90 hectares; they are typical formations of rock and clay, reaching heights of hundreds of metres. When you visit them, you’ll be able to admire breathtaking views, with steep cliff faces and countless colour variations.

It’s possible to view the Balze of Volterra from several observation points, or get closer via some walking trails. There is also a clearly marked viewpoint, which is easy to reach and offers splendid panoramic views.