Hotel Villa Cappugi
Pistoia - Via Di Colle Gigliato 45
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Pistoia was named Italian Capital of Culture in 2017: a title that belatedly shone a spotlight on a city brimming with artistic and architectural treasures but often overlooked. Tourism in the city has certainly increased, but it still falls far short – and never will reach – the levels of Florence, Pisa and Siena.
Small, easy to navigate, less crowded and cheaper than more famous destinations, Pistoia is a tranquil and welcoming art city: the ideal destination for slow tourism away from mass tourist routes. The city sits on a plain, so there are no steep hills or impossibly narrow streets: urban strolls are easy and thoroughly enjoyable.
Located roughly halfway between Florence and Lucca, with Pisa not far away, Pistoia can also serve as a base for exploring northern Tuscany.
On a day trip you can visit art cities and villages, relax at thermal spas, sunbathe on the beaches of Versilia, ski at Abetone or trek the nearby hills.
Pistoia is also an unusual destination for a couples’ break or a Tuscan food and wine tour thanks to a distinctly sweet local speciality that will delight lovers and food enthusiasts alike: the confetto a riccio or birignoccoluto. Made using an ancient production method, you can taste it in the city’s historic sweet shops and chocolateries.
The main attractions in Pistoia are concentrated in the historic centre, within a short distance of each other. Half a day is enough to visit the city, but we recommend staying longer to admire all the attractions at a leisurely pace and have time to savour local culinary specialities.
An excellent starting point for exploring Pistoia’s centre is Piazza del Duomo, the city’s main square. Less famous than other Tuscan squares, it captivates visitors with its noticeably more relaxed atmosphere and the undeniable harmony of its architectural elements.
The square also holds major symbolic importance as it concentrates the symbols of both civil and religious power in the city: the Cathedral, the Bishop’s Palace, the Baptistry, the Palazzo del Podestà and the Palazzo degli Anziani (the town hall).
Piazza Duomo is also the splendid setting for the Giostra dell’Orso, Pistoia’s palio held every year on 25 July, and for all the city’s most important events.
Pistoia’s most important religious building is the Cathedral or Cathedral of San Zeno, a magnificent church in Romanesque style with a polychrome stone façade and elegant portico. The church holds the relics of Saint James, the patron saint of Pisa.
Numerous artworks adorn both the interior and exterior of the Cathedral: these include statues of San Zeno and Saint James, the Crucifix by Coppo di Marcovaldo, the retable housing the relics of Saint James and the tomb monument of Cino da Pistoia.
Beside the Cathedral stands the Bell Tower, originally built as a defensive tower during the Lombard era and modified several times over the centuries. Three distinct styles are evident: the base with the clock, dating from the Lombard period, is austere and unadorned; the upper levels are more elegant, in Pisan and Pisan-Lucchese style.
Standing 67 metres high, Pistoia’s Cathedral Bell Tower offers fantastic panoramic views of the city. To reach the top, you’ll need to climb approximately 200 steep steps.
Facing the Cathedral, almost at the centre of the square, stands the Baptistry of San Giovanni in corte, an octagonal Gothic building decorated in white and green marble. It was built between 1301 and 1366 on the remains of the Church of Santa Maria in Corte, from which it takes part of its name.
The exterior is rich in detail, whilst the interior is simpler: the marble cladding remains unfinished.
The Palazzo degli Anziani, also called Palazzo Giano or Palazzo Comunale, is the symbol of civil power in Pistoia. Built between the 13th and 14th centuries, it is connected to the Cathedral by a tunnel constructed in 1637.
Today it serves as the town hall and houses the Civic Museum of Pistoia, the city’s oldest museum. The museum tour is a journey through Pistoia’s artistic history from the 12th to the 20th century; on display you’ll find paintings, sculptures, ceramics, glassware and jewellery.
Piazza della Sala is the other vital hub in Pistoia’s centre: whilst Piazza Duomo claims historical and artistic supremacy, Piazza della Sala holds pride of place for social and recreational activities.
Brimming with bars and cafés perfect for an aperitivo, it’s the most popular meeting spot for young people from Pistoia; in the mornings it becomes the location of a busy open-air market. The centre of the square is marked by an ancient well with a statue of a small lion in sandstone, created in the 16th century, which symbolises Florence’s victory over Pistoia.
An extension of Piazza della Sala, which many consider part of it, is Piazzetta degli Ortaggi: here you can admire the sculpture Giro del Sole created by contemporary artist from Pistoia, Roberto Barni.
A city’s hospital is not usually a place one wishes to visit… in Pistoia’s case, however, it’s one of the main tourist attractions.
In operation until 2013, the Spedale del Ceppo served its healthcare function for over seven centuries. The buildings comprising the former hospital complex are historic palaces of significant architectural and artistic value.
Particularly famous is the wonderful frieze in painted and glazed terracotta that decorates the upper part of the external loggia: it’s a true masterpiece and has become an iconic image of Pistoia. Also noteworthy are the roundels depicting the Annunciation, the Glory of the Virgin and the Visitation, created in the first half of the 16th century by Giovanni della Robbia.
The former health facility now houses the Spedale Museum, which traces the history of Pistoia’s healthcare. You can see an 18th-century anatomical theatre, a collection of surgical instruments, historical documents about the lives of the city’s most renowned physicians and more.
The Spedale del Ceppo can be visited inside and also… below. Underground Pistoia is a walking route of nearly 800 metres that winds beneath Pistoia’s historic buildings following the ancient bed of the Brana stream.
Along the route, information panels illustrate the different phases of the city’s expansion which, as it grew, incorporated walls, towers and bridges. Other panels are dedicated to the construction history of the Spedale del Ceppo.
Beyond its historical importance, Underground Pistoia deserves a visit because it’s a fascinating place and reveals an unknown side of our cities.
Another fine church in Pistoia is the Pieve di Sant’Andrea, dating probably to the 7th century and modified several times over the centuries; its current appearance dates to the 12th century.
The pulpit is a true masterpiece, entirely carved by Giovanni Pisano with scenes from the lives of the Saints.
A special place hidden in Pistoia’s historic centre is Giardino di Cino: it usually doesn’t feature on tourist routes, yet it would be a shame to leave Pistoia without seeing it.
It’s a cultural centre born from a project to revitalise the area around Piazzetta Sant’Atto and Vicolo dei Bacchettoni; both public and private entities participated in the project. Very active, the centre organises exhibitions, artist residencies and numerous other cultural events.
As part of the area’s revitalisation project, a magnificent mural was created that covers an entire side wall of one of the buildings facing the piazzetta. The title is No Hesitation, by street artist Millo; the mural depicts two young people opening each other’s heart doors.
Another Pistoia attraction looking to the present is the Museum of the 20th Century and Contemporary Art, housed in the elegant setting of Palazzo Fabroni.
The museum displays a collection of works by artists from Pistoia or who worked in Pistoia, with particular focus on conceptual art, arte povera, minimal art and visual poetry. The exhibition layout is chronological, spanning from the 1920s to the present day. The outdoor space serves as an artist-designed garden.
A delightful green oasis in central Pistoia is Montuliveto, a splendid urban park. The park features a modern design café-restaurant that’s very popular, and cultural events, film screenings, author meetings, workshops and other activities are continuously organised.
Pistoia’s accommodation offering cannot be compared to those of the more visited art cities in Tuscany, but it is adequate given the smaller number of visitors who stay here rather than in Florence, Pisa or Siena.
The best option for staying in Pistoia is to book an apartment or bed and breakfast in the historic centre: this allows you to move easily on foot to visit the city and have plenty of places to dine and spend the evening.
If you’re travelling by car, you can venture a few kilometres out and stay in a hotel or farm stay set in the countryside. The most luxurious ones feature a swimming pool and spa.
Its proximity to Florence means Pistoia lies on some of Tuscany’s most important road and rail routes.
Arriving by car is straightforward: simply take the A11, exit at the Pistoia tollbooth and follow signs to the centre. Close to the historic centre there are some very convenient free car parks.
Reaching Pistoia by public transport is equally easy as the city is connected to Florence by frequent direct trains; the journey takes about 40-50 minutes, roughly the same time it takes to travel by train from Lucca.
Pistoia railway station is a short distance from the centre: you can reach the heart of the city on foot or by local bus.
Regional buses connect Pistoia to the main towns throughout Tuscany; there are also some long-distance coach services for destinations across the country.
The nearest airport to Pistoia is Florence, but also consider Pisa as it offers a wider selection of low-cost flights.
What's the weather at Pistoia? Below are the temperatures and the weather forecast at Pistoia for the next few days.
Pistoia is a town in northern Tuscany and the capital of its province. It sits almost equidistant from Florence and Lucca: 35 km to the south-east of the former, and to the west of the latter. Pisa lies roughly 60 km away, whilst Siena is around 90 km distant.
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