Volterra

Palazzo dei Priori

The beautiful Palazzo dei Priori is one of Volterra‘s main attractions. It is located in Piazza dei Priori, and has the distinction of being the oldest municipal palace in Tuscany. Its architectural style is very reminiscent of Palazzo Vecchio in Florence, but it has a history and personality all of its own. Built in the early 1200s, today it houses the offices of the municipality of Volterra, but in the past it served as the seat of the 18 Priori del Popolo.

On the outside, the stone façade is characterised by string-course cornices and semicircular merlons, and is decorated with terracotta plaques recalling ancient Florentine families, evidence of the fact that Volterra was governed by the city of Florence from the 15th century. The façade is surmounted by a tall tower, dating back to the 16th century, and rebuilt 150 years later, following damage caused by the earthquake of 1846.

Inside, visit the elegant atrium, where the coats of arms of the city’s priors are displayed. Don’t miss the magnificent Council Chamber, the most representative of the palace, located on the first floor. The upper floors, now used as offices of the Municipality of Volterra, originally housed the Priors’ bedrooms, as well as a hall for meetings and meals.

Santa Maria Assunta Cathedral

The cathedral of Volterra, officially the Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta, is the city’s main church. It is built in Romanesque and Baroque style, and its construction lasted for six centuries, from the 12th to the 18th century.

Visit its interior, with its Latin cross plan and three naves divided by no less than 22 pink stucco columns and white capitals. Much of what you can admire inside the Volterra cathedral dates back to a major restoration in the mid 19th century, including the grey and white striped walls, the presbytery and the floor. When you find yourself in the nave, look up and admire the splendid coffered ceiling with geometric and decorative motifs, while to the sides of the aisles are six chapels, housing works of art by numerous painters from the late 16th century.

The oldest work of art preserved inside the cathedral of Volterra is the sculptural group of the Deposition, dating back to the 13th century and made by local craftsmen. It depicts Jesus Christ being deposed from the cross by the Madonna, St. John the Evangelist, Joseph of Arimathea and Nicodemus.

Roman Theatre

In the 1950s, an ancient Roman theatre was brought to light in Volterra, thanks to a series of archaeological excavations north of the historic centre. The theatre has been dated to the end of the 1st century BC, and is excavated in the natural slope of a small relief, just like Greek theatres. In addition to the theatre, excavations have unearthed seats and some of the staircases.

It is estimated that the theatre could hold up to 3500 spectators, and it also contained a velarium, i.e. a curtain supported by ropes, a covering that made it usable even in adverse weather conditions. The theatre can be visited as it is contained within an archaeological area, which can be accessed just outside Porta Fiorentina.

Today, Volterra’s Roman theatre has also returned to its former glory as a venue for events and performances, as the International Festival takes place here every year, where a qualified jury awards the Ombra della Sera prizes to important personalities from the world of entertainment and culture.

Medici Fortress

The Florentine domination of Volterra is also noted in the city by the presence of the Fortezza Medicea, an imposing building composed of two separate bodies joined by high defensive walls. They are the Rocca Vecchia, or Cassero, and the Rocca Nuova, or Mastio.

The first part that was built was the Rocca Vecchia, erected by the Duke of Athens, Volterra’s ‘neutral’ leader during the 14th century, to try to prevent the city’s most important families from waging war to dominate the city. It is flanked by the Rocca Nuova, built directly by Lorenzo dè Medici by destroying two quarters and the bishop’s palace.

The Medici Fortress of Volterra is today a state prison and therefore cannot be visited, unless special exceptions are made.

St. John's Baptistery

Opposite the cathedral stands the Baptistery of St. John, an octagonal building dating back to the second half of the 13th century. The façade facing the cathedral is very beautiful and characteristic, with white and green marble bands, where the majestic Romanesque-style portal is located.

Inside, the baptistery of St. John has six niches and an altar, the latter dating back to the 18th century. There are some very important decorations, including an Ascension by Niccolò Cercignani, painted on wood, while to the right of the altar is the ancient baptismal font, the work of Andrea Sansovino and dating back to 1502. In the centre of the baptistery is a large baptismal font, surmounted by a statue of St John the Baptist, dating back to 1759 and the work of Giovanni Vaccà.

In Via Don Minzoni in Volterra is the Guarnacci Etruscan Museum, one of the city’s main attractions. It showcases Volterra’s Etruscan past, with an extensive collection of ancient art spanning no less than 38 rooms, arranged over three floors plus the garden and all interconnected.

The Etruscan museum originated at the end of the 18th century thanks to a number of private donations, the most important of which was that of Monsignor Mario Guarnacci, who donated his entire collection to the newly established museum, so much so that the museum was initially housed inside Palazzo Ruggeri, the Guarnacci family’s private home.

Inside the museum you can visit the world’s largest collection of Etruscan urns. Highlights include the Stele of Avile Tite, the bronze statuette Ombra della sera, the terracotta urn of the bride and groom, and the Lorenzini head.

TheAbbey of Saints Justus and Clement is a religious building that is now abandoned and in a state of disrepair, due to the 1846 earthquake. But it is precisely this state that makes it truly unique, and in some ways one of the most beautiful and special things to see in Volterra.

The late Renaissance façade, apse and bell tower of the church are still standing. The numerous works of art originally present have been transferred to other buildings in the city, including the diocesan museum of sacred art, the church of San Giusto, the Volterra picture gallery and civic museum, and the municipal library.

The Abbey of Saints Justus and Clement is located north of the city of Volterra, a short distance from the famous Balze. It can be reached by driving north along the SP15 road for just over 2 kilometres.

It is impossible to leave Volterra without taking a wonderful photo of its Balze at sunset. The Balze of Volterra are rock formations located near the town, extending over an area of almost 90 hectares; they are typical rock and clay formations, reaching heights of up to hundreds of metres. When you visit them, you can admire breathtaking views, with steep walls and many shades of colour.

It is possible to see the Volterra crags from some observation points, or to approach them via some paths. There is also a well-marked belvedere , easy to reach and from which you can admire a splendid panorama.